MY ROAD TRIP IN NORTHERN PORTUGAL

Portugal: this beautiful country located in the westernmost part of the European continent, on the Iberian Peninsula, has incredible landscapes, from the paradisiacal coves in the South, hidden between the giant cliffs, the beaches of the West with fine white sand, ideal to take a walk at sunset or practice some water sport, such as surfing, since the Atlantic waves are ideal for it, to the beautiful cities, full of bohemian charm, where you have the opportunity to try the traditional Portuguese cuisine that it will leave you with a good taste in your mouth. I have visited Portugal on numerous occasions and I always go back…

MY TRIP STARTS IN COIMBRA

Coimbra was the first destination of my road trip in the northern Portugal. Crossed by the Mondego River, it is a city full of medieval arches, narrow streets decorated with modernist style buildings, and small pubs where you have the possibility of trying a good Portuguese wine while listening to Fado, traditional Portuguese music, full of nostalgia and melancholy. The Fado of Coimbra is different from the rest of Portuguese Fado, as it can only be sung by men, dressed in a black cape and robe. In their songs they talk about student love affairs and the city itself. You should not miss such a show. Likewise, for art lovers, the city has plenty of historical places, such as the oldest University in the country, where the impressive 18th century Rococo-style Joanina Library is located, or the Royal Palace that impresses visitors with its extraordinary chambers, such as: Dos Capelos Chamber and Weapons Chamber. On the other hand, the Old Cathedral of the Romanesque style and from the 12th century, which keeps inside a beautiful Gothic cloister and the Santa Clara a-Velha Monastery from 1314 are other obligatory visits. The Monastery was abandoned, and the nuns moved to a new place, due to the frequent flooding of the river. Currently, the place is restored and visits are allowed.

NEXT STOP: AVEIRO

My next destination of the trip IS located just 55km from Coimbra: Aveiro, it is also known by the nickname of “The Venice of the North”, since it is crossed by numerous channels that endow it with great beauty. Among the different areas of this charming city, a traditional Beira Mar fishermen’s district stands out, which will undoubtedly leave you in love with its typical colored houses, salt warehouses and stately homes, some of them built in the modernist style. The best way to get to know this architectural jewel is to take a walk through its narrow streets, although there is also the possibility of touring the canals with a boat, on a trip that lasts about an hour. In addition, another good option to enjoy the charm of this Portuguese city is by having a picnic in the Dom Pedro Infante Park, full of numerous ponds that give it a romantic atmosphere. Another essential place to visit in Aveiro is the Costa Nova Beach, next to which are located the picturesque wooden houses, colorfully painted with vertical lines, which formerly served as warehouses for fishermen. The beach has fine white sand and during hot summer days you really want to take a dip.

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ARRIVING IN PORTO

Porto, where the mouth of the Douro River is located, is known worldwide for its fantastic wine that receives the same name. By the way, a curiosity from geography classes: did you know that most European rivers, as well as the Duero, flow into the Atlantic Ocean due to the inclination of the European continent towards the west that occurred during the time of alpine orogenesis ? As I was telling you, Porto stands out for its wines and the best way to get to know the winemaking tradition is to cross the Don Luis I Bridge, which opened in 1886 and it’s a magnificent representation of Iron Architecture. On the other side of the bridge the wineries of the city are located in the Vila Nova de Gaia district, where you have the opportunity to learn about the different steps that are carried out to make a good wine. Among the best known wineries are Calem, Croft, Graham`s, Sandeman or Ferreira. By the way, watching the sunset from the upper deck of the bridge is fabulous. Don’t miss out! Also, take the opportunity to get to know the Ribeira do Porto, which has really beautiful views of the colored facades of the old buildings of this Portuguese city.

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Another feature of the city are the magnificent decorations made with white and blue mosaics. Nobody is indifferent to this artistic beauty. The San Bento Station stands out. It was built on the remains of an old Convent from the 9th century, in which the most outstanding events in the history of the country are shown through 20,000 tiles. The mosaic decoration can also be seen in the Chapel of Souls, dedicated to Saint Catherine, whose construction dates back to the 18th century, and which by the way is located near the Bolhao Market or the Lello and Irmao Bookstore. I remember having to wait a while to enter that bookstore, however, it was worth it since this neogothic and Modern Style construction makes you fall in love with its design, blue, reddish and gold stained glass windows, carved wooden decoration and the curious central staircase. Pure fantasy that became the source of inspiration for various writers, such as J.K. Rowling who placed some of the Harry Potter scenes in it. The entrance cost me about € 5, but if you buy a book, you get the discount.

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Another essential place to visit is the Neoclassical Stock Exchange Palace (Palácio da Bolsa). Among the magnificent chambers that are part of this national monument, the picturesque Arab Chamber stands out, whose decoration is inspired by the Alhambra in Granada, in Spain. Next to the Palace there is the Church of San Francisco, whose interior is decorated with Baroque style. Did you know that the term Baroque comes from Portuguese and means “irregular pearl”? I suppose that seeing the characteristics of this style it is not difficult to understand the reason for this name. In the Church there is the polychrome wood sculpture, which represents the Tree of Jesse, that is, the genealogical tree of Jesus Christ. Finally, to end your visit, nothing better than a walk among nature, and I recommend you visit the Crystal Palace Gardens next to the banks of the Duero. Beautiful peacocks walk freely through the gardens, you will surely see them.

TIPS:

• Book your tickets for a live Fado show, the pubs are small and tend to fill up early. It is an ideal occasion to enjoy good music and the history of the city.
• The Aveiro salines are a place with a unique landscape, even today it is possible to see how salt is extracted in an artisanal way. Some hotels have views of the salt flats, don’t miss it.
• To see Costa Nova Beach in Aveiro perhaps you can book the free-tour: https://www.civitatis.com/es/aveiro/free-tour-costa-nova/?aid=1051
• If you stay more days in Porto, do not hesitate to visit Guimaraes, a picturesque medieval town.