THE BLUE MOUNTAIN: EL CHALTEN

In the southern area of Andes, in the province of Santa Cruz, located in Patagonia, there is El Chaltén,a small Argentine town, situated on the banks of the River de Las Vueltas. This town is fortunate to be located in the Glacier National Park, a fantastic region that leaves visitors speechless due to its resplendent beauty.

MEANING OF THE NAME

This small Argentine town owes its name to the nearby mountain, very characteristic for its unique shape. El Chaltén comes from the language of an indigenous group of people from southern Patagonia, the Tehuelches, and means in their language: the blue mountain. Although later in the 19th century Francisco Moreno, known as Perito Moreno (btw. the famous glacier in this area is called by his name), renamed the mountain Fitz Roy, in honor of the captain of HMS Beagle, who traveled the Santa Cruz River in 1834.

HOW TO GET THERE

The fastest way to travel to this part of the world is by plane from the prodigious Argentine capital, Buenos Aires, to El Calafate, the closest city that has an airport. El Calafate is located about 200km away and its airport has a daily bus service that connects both towns.

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However, if you decide to stay in El Calafate, as this city is located closer to Perito Moreno, a great option is also to book a private or shared tour to visit El Chaltén. You should not miss it! As the views are truly admirable and it has numerous hiking trails.

In addition, the route along the highway runs along the famous RUTA NACIONAL 40, the highway that crosses Argentina from north to south. Halfway between the two towns, next to the River la Leona, there is a famous historical location known as Parador la Leona, a place declared Historical and Cultural Heritage that was built in 1894 by a Danish family, the Jansens.

Here, for example, 17 years before its construction, Perito Moreno was badly wounded by a puma (“lioness” in Patagonian slang). Or Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid passed through this place, fleeing to Chile after carrying out the robbery at the Bank of London. Also the famous Uruguayan bandit, Asensio Brunel, who rode bareback on his horse and wore only Puma skins, stayed at the Parador la Leona.

WLECOME TO THE WILD

I suppose that the most impressive thing about this town, founded on October 12, 1985, in a rather hostile environment, due to opposition from the president of the National Parks Administration, are, without a doubt, its extraordinary landscapes and endless hiking trails, surrounded by wild and still primitive nature, as a consequence of the protected nature of the area.

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The excursions that are usually practiced in the area include hiking, climbing, rafting, kayaking and horseback riding, so you will not get bored if you come. Also since the town is located in the heart of the Glacier National Park, you should not miss a visit to any of them, here is the link for Perito Moreno, the best known in the area. Other areas of interest are: the Argentino Lake, the Viedma Lake, the Desert Lake, the Chaltén Hill, the Torre Hill, the Southern Patagonian Ice Field, etc…

SHORT TRAILS AROUND THE TOWN

THE VIEWPOINT OF THE CONDORS

From the town El Chaltén you can take short walks of about two hours of hiking, suitable for most people, due to their low difficulty.

One of the places that I liked the most is the Viewpoint of the Condors – Las Águilas, which is reached by a relatively recent path, from 2004, and very well signposted. From the Viewpoint you will have the opportunity to contemplate the Condors. These impressive birds of the South American continent are symbols of many countries such as: Argentina, Chile, Peru or Bolivia, among others. From the highest point of the Viewpoint the condors, black and white plumage, look quite breathtaking. I consider that being able to contemplate them so closely is even disturbing, and you will surely be speechless. Its size is truly extraordinary.

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On the other hand, from this viewpoint you will be able to appreciate the magnificent views of the mountains and the whitish glaciers that dominate the horizon, as well as the town El Chaltén.

CHORRILLOS DEL SANTO

Another pleasant walk of about three hours of hiking is Chorrillos del Santo. I think that during the winter months, when the landscape is dressed in white, the route is even more beautiful. And when temperatures reach -20ºC it is possible that the water from the waterfall ends up converting itself into ice.

The route begins at the end of Avd. de San Martín in town and on the path to Laguna de los Tres, you should take the path to the right. You can also get there by the car, since near the end of the route there is a parking area, although I recommend you do the route on foot, since it runs between beautiful trails that in spring and summer are dressed in green. Important, if you ride a bike, the last part up to the waterfall must be done on foot, since it is forbidden to ride a bike. However, the restriction only applies to this short part of the way, nothing else.

TIPS:

• To get to El Chaltén, the fastest way is by taking a plane from Buenos Aires to El Calafate and then the bus from the airport.
• In this part of Argentina winter it is really cold, so bring warm clothes and wear good hiking boots.
• Try the local gastronomy, especially the delicious stew, such as Locro, which will warm you up.
• To end the day, try a good beer, the Patagonia brand is really delicious.